Cycling the Hebridean Way
A South to North exploration of the unspoiled, remote beauty of The Outer Hebrides. 185 miles, 6 causeways, 2 ferries, one unforgettable bikepacking adventure.
I deferred to the judgment of my lovely sponsors at Tiso when planning this bikepacking trip. As a photographer, I am categorically unable to “pack light”, explaining to the staff at Alpine Bikes that I would need something capable of keeping my precious cargo (two cameras, a tripod and too many lenses) safe and dry. Especially when Scottish weather becomes “challenging”, as I would be photographing the route for CalMac ferries. Following some illuminating discussion and perusing the range of kit, we decided that my best option was the Ortlieb 40l panniers. After much unpacking/repacking and disseminating of equipment, the bikes were loaded up and we caught a train out of Glasgow to Oban.
Check out the options for booking tickets for the ferries along the route at Calmac.co.uk
The Route
The journey begins in Vatersay, the island at the bottom of the chain, and travels North, finishing at the lighthouse, at the most Northerly point of the isle of Lewis, keeping prevailing winds behind you. The route is on roads, often single track which weave their way through villages and towns, and is joined up by CalMac ferries and causeways.
Build days into your itinerary to stop off an infinite number of times. We slowed to watch sunsets, and the incredible biodiversity of the Outer Hebrides make this an amazing place for spotting wildlife. White tailed sea eagles, seals, dolphins, basking sharks and many others frequent the waters along the route, so keep your eyes peeled as you pass beaches and when you are on board the CalMac ferry.
This is a point to point route meaning your journey out to the islands will be completely different to the journey home, adding another layer of excitement into the mix. The route has a good choice of campsites and more upscale offerings of accommodation along the way, depending on your budget. Recommended itineraries offer options of between 4-7 days depending on your skill level and planned mileage for each day. From the avid touring cyclists who want to experience a challenge, to the slow travel tourers who just want to pause and take it all in. The beauty of this route is that you can make it your own.
My noble steed - the bike i’ve had since childhood, top of range? It is not… but it survived!
The more time you are able to dedicate to this journey, the better. With historic monuments to explore, miles of coastline to dip tired legs in, and stunning wildlife to spot en route, this is a journey to savour, not rush. There is nothing quite like watching the sunset over sea lochs in the tiny hamlets of Harris or hearing the dawn chorus as you jump back into the saddle on a dewy morning. Build in time for a rest day or two to break off the route and take in some of the incredible heritage and culture of these islands, such as the Callanish Standing Stones or Kisimul Castle.
Logistics
There are a lot of options along the route to suit most needs, however, due to the somewhat remote nature of these islands, busy periods will require pre booking to ensure you have a place to rest each evening. The same goes for campsites, which in summer months fill up fast. The popularity of the Harris beaches, for example, mean that you shouldn’t expect to be able to turn up and pitch, or expect to be disappointed! We pitched at campsites along the route, I usually love to wild camp in Scotland, however, the joys of a hot shower after a cold day of windy and/or rainy riding are not to be underestimated! The same goes for the CalMac ferries which link up the route, these can be busy so it is always wise to book ahead to ensure travel on your planned days. Also consider the one drawback of a Scottish Summer Adventure - the dreaded midge. Unfortunately these beasts are more prevalent in the summer months. We decided to travel towards the end of September, though we still experienced periods of intense annoyance, they were definitely less prevalent than in June/July. Something to consider.
As with all touring journeys (the Hebridean Way can be trekked too) from hiking to bike packing, lighter is generally better! Minimalism is the way forward and will make your life easier on the longer mile days! If possible, it's a good idea to have a trial run, as this will help you to finesse your equipment and jettison the kitchen sink before you are committed to lugging it for several days. You will thank me as you hit the Harris hills, where you will feel every ounce of extra weight!
My 40litre Ortlieb panniers were invaluable in protecting all of my photography kit whilst experiencing every type of Scottish weather. They kept everything secure and watertight for the duration, even when we spent 6 solid hours of cycling through buffeting wind and an incessant icy downpour! Plus, their cheerful, luminous colour means motorists can spot me coming a mile off, which is always a bonus for any cyclist!
Check out these resources from Visit Outer Hebrides to keep you right whilst en route and help with planning your own Hebridean Adventure!
The Body Toolkit
Katrina Mather is the founder and driving force behind The Body Toolkit Retreats, award winning health and detox retreats in Scotland
I find myself packing a bag haphazardly after a particularly intense period of work. Longing for the shimmering reward of rest on the horizon, I’m heading to the West Coast, to Arisaig House, the setting for the Body Tool Kit Retreat.
The nature of being a freelance photographer is that I say yes to every assignment, until there is more work than hours of life to do said work in. I love my job, but being your own boss can, at times, lead to a general fraying of the nerves! The months before the retreat involved wild weathered photoshoots, unpacking and repacking for international travel, over caffeination to the point of being able to hear my blood zipping around my veins and sub-standard food on the go.
This is the position I am in, as I exit frenetic Glasgow. I am in dire need of a reset.
The Body Toolkit
The retreat is the brainchild of Katrina Mather, a kind and warm human who will feel like an old friend about five minutes into your first meeting. A week long, it is described as a cleansing programme of organic vegetable juices and soups, set in the little oasis of the family run Arisaig House.
My retreat got off to the best possible start by virtue of its stunning Highland surroundings. Think peacocks wandering by the Victorian era country manor, the interior a dream of tasteful artwork, comfy armchairs and wood burning fireplaces.
We have 3 juices per day and a warming soup each evening. Katrina delivers daily workshops on subjects such as earthing, EFT and processes for generally optimising health.
There’s a small library around health and nutrition that you can delve into, or evening educational films. We hunker down in robes and slippers with fireside herbal teas, before wandering to our room to bathe or stare out the window at deer on the hillside. Add on the serene stretching classes by candlelight, gratitude journaling and the occasional sensational massage. You are now operating on never before experienced levels of relaxation for the mind and body!
I cannot remember a period where I have ever dedicated such focus to myself for physical and mental well being.
As the retreat begins I struggle with the internal voice that prods “You should be doing something!” everytime I want to relax. Katrina nods at this, a symptom of the toxic productivity of our modern age. She constantly brings us back to “remembering the basics” and her mantra is “be gentle with yourself”. Explaining that we can be very compassionate with the needs of others but will never let ourselves off as lightly. This is something I can identify strongly with. I add this advice to my own toolkit with Katrina’s encouragement, putting aside my quiet need to be “getting on with something”.
As a natural introvert, I feel nervous about anything “group” related, but I realise that The Body Toolkit strikes a perfect balance. Asking that we come together for meals, means being able to discuss small niggles as our bodies detox from our vices. This is really important to demystifying the process and creates a fun sense of camaraderie. However, the program folds in a multitude of solo time and the groups are kept purposefully small. I wander to the shore to beach-comb, or nap in my room, ensuring space for personal musings and contemplation.
Eschew all previous knowledge associated with “juice cleanse” when considering The Body Tool Kit Retreats. The gentleness of the approach ensures that it never feels like a deprivation journey. We are encouraged to ask for second helpings. As someone who loves food, I have to admit to being shocked at my total lack of hunger. A phrase which Katrina often reiterates is that as a nation we are “overfed and undernourished”. After a few days of flooding my body with nutrition and resting my over stimulated brain I can feel a new energy and vitality brewing.
By week's end, my constant companion of belly bloating and panda-like dark eye circles have totally disappeared. My mind seems sharper, my morning journaling fills up with discerning ideas and positive planning for the future. Physically, at the end of the week, I feel a sense of brightness, and vigour that I can’t remember having for a long time. A decrease in that number on the scales at home is a pretty lovely bonus too!
Katrina’s retreats bestow the most nutrition boosting, spirit resting, relaxing week ever. However, more importantly, it gives you the tools to carry the positives forward. This isn’t just a welcome sojourn from your life but new practices to arrest the tide of negativity and begin the tentative steps down a path to a healthier and happier self.
Returning home I feel hopeful and excited to implement small positive changes. As well as really practical things, such as my first juicer purchase, allowing me to pack nutrient dense deliciousness into my days, I quickly folded habits established on the retreat fluidly into my home life.
Katrina’s approach reminds me that small lifestyle changes hold a lot of power, as such I find myself juicing most days and I’ve started long distance running again and a renewed program of exercise that I can mix into my, sometimes hectic, lifestyle. I’ve gotten better at taking time for myself away from devices each day and have begun to look forward to my quiet moments of cosy yoga each evening! I feel like I’ve taken back some control in my life.
Her teachings helped me to not just have a beautiful well earned break, but to make real change in my overall lifestyle too. I’ve kept the juices, the exercise, journaling and vision boards… and I'm working on leaving the harmful habits behind. Thanks to the The Body Tool Kit, I now have a far better chance of doing so.